Mọ́ímọ́í
Photo Credits: Seriouseats
If we were to count the number of traditional Yorùbá attires, it would be nearly impossible to list them all. However, some notable ones include agbádá, ẹṣíkí, jaláàbú, and dàndógó (borrowed from the Hausa people), as well as gbárìyẹ̀, sapará, gbérí, bùbá, sòkòtò kẹ̀mbẹ̀, and sòkòtò ṣọ́rọ́. There are also various types of Yorùbá headwear, such as the abetí-ajá cap, gọ̀bì cap, and others. Yorùbá women, on the other hand, wear ìró (wrapper) and bùbá (blouse), complemented by elaborate gèlè (headwraps) and different types of undergarments.
Among the fabrics used to make these outfits, some of the most cherished traditional textiles include kìjìpà, àrán, àdìrẹ, and aṣọ-òkè. In the following section, we will delve deeper into the fascinating world of aṣọ-òkè, exploring its cultural significance, craftsmanship, and timeless appeal.
The Origin and Meaning of Aṣọ-Òkè
The name Aṣọ-Òkè, which translates to “cloth from the upper town,” originated from the geographical distinction made by the Yorùbá people, particularly those residing in the lowland areas closer to the coast, such as Lagos, Ìjẹ̀bú, Ẹ̀gbá, and Oǹdó, who often refer to those in the highland regions as “people of the upper town” (àwọn ara ìlú òkè).
Yorùbá Aṣọ-Òkè
Photo Credits: Etsy
Historically, the weaving of Aṣọ-Òkè has been most prominent in these highland areas, with Ìṣẹ́yìn, a town in present-day Ọyọ State, standing out as the major center of production. Due to its widespread production and use in the highland areas, the fabric eventually became popularly known as Aṣọ-Òkè. Despite being widely referred to as Aṣọ-Òkè, the actual name of this cloth is Òfì.
Types of Aṣọ-Òkè and Their Characteristics
Aṣọ-Òkè is traditionally classified into three major types based on the materials used in weaving and the distinct colors associated with each type. These types Sanyan, Alaari, and Ẹtù.
1. Sányán:
Sányán is a luxurious type of Aṣọ-Òkè. Sanyan is known for its distinctive tan or light brown colour. This fabric is highly revered and is often worn by elders, traditional rulers, and dignitaries for formal occasions.
Sányán Aṣọ-Òkè
Photo Credits: Deji & Kola
Due to its durability and timeless appeal, Sanyan is commonly passed down as ogún within families.
2. Àlàárì:
Alàárì is a striking type of Aṣọ-Òkè woven with either locally grown or synthetic cotton, often incorporating shimmering threads that enhance its vibrancy. It is characterized by its deep red or rich purple colour. It a symbol of royalty, affluence, and prestige.
In traditional Yorùbá society, Alaari is often chosen as the preferred attire for grooms during wedding ceremonies and is also worn by chiefs and prominent figures during public events.
3. Ẹtù:
Ẹtù, meaning “guinea fowl” in Yorùbá, is a type of Aṣọ-Òkè that derives its name from its dark indigo colour, which resembles the feathers of a guinea fowl. This fabric is woven with finely spaced white stripes that create an elegant design.
Ẹ̀tù Aṣọ-Òkè
Photo Credits: Etsy
Ẹtù is traditionally worn by men, especially during significant cultural and religious events, and it is often associated with wisdom and maturity. The dyeing process of Etu involves multiple stages of indigo dyeing. Unlike Alaari, which is bold and vibrant, Etu is admired for its simplicity and classic appeal.
The production of Aṣọ-Òkè
The production of Aṣọ-Òkè is time-honoured process that requires exceptional skill, patience, and a deep understanding of traditional weaving techniques. It begins with cotton seed extraction (Òwú gbígbọ̀n), where cotton fibers are separated from their seeds using a wooden block and an iron rod, with the fibers reserved for spinning while the seeds are saved for future planting. Spinning (Òwú rírán) follows, transforming raw cotton into thread.
Igi Òwú (Cotton Plant)
Photo Credit: Britannica
After this, the threads undergo sorting and preparation, where dirt and impurities are removed, and the threads are either left in their natural creamish-white colour or dyed in vibrant hues to achieve the desired aesthetic. Next is patterning, a crucial stage where dyed threads are arranged in a specific sequence to create intricate designs, a process that demands high precision, as errors may require starting over. A significant aspect of Aṣọ-Òkè weaving is the use of heritage weaving machines, often passed down through generations, thereby, ensuring the preservation of craftsmanship. This ancient tradition remains a cornerstone of Yorùbá identity.